Something I did not expect in my acquisition of keyboards is the prevalence of the Kawai brand in what comes in the door. And of those, I am surprised at how many are not working.
A quick rundown of what I have right now at this moment. A Kawai K3 was the first purchase and it was in ok shape, if poorly neglected, with a mouse nest inside it. I followed that up with a K1 desktop module and wasn’t thrilled with it, so it went to the closet. A later attempt to reconnect with it made me decide the sound wasn’t all that bad and if I could get the rackmount version, I would. I did – the K1R. That one was purchased as not working, but it only needed a new fuse. Then I bought a K3M, the rackmount version of the one I first purchased, sold as probably working, does not. Then I bought a K5M, which seems to have trouble with sysex – hoping a firmware upgrade resolves it. And I bought another K3M so I can troubleshoot the broken one against the working one. And I bought another K1R, which was sold as broken with supposedly an easy fix, which it was until it wasn’t. And that’s where this story starts.
The latest K1R was sold as broken and would not power on. The seller assumed it was the power jack broken off because it pushed in when he plugged in the power cord. He was correct. It was a simple soldering fix. However, when I had opened the case up, I found the device was not in good shape. The top cover had rust on the inside, the rack ears had rust as well. So I figured I’d try to fix those problems and clean everything up while it was all disassembled anyway. My mistake. For some reason the front panel wouldn’t come off. When I did get it off, this is what I was faced with.
The buttons were taped to the switches with some really super-sticky tape, which was also stuck to the front panel. Ok, no big deal, I can take the tape off. Wait, no I can’t. Why not? WTF, the switches are glued to the tape with rubber cement. I carefully worked each button off until, just like my last repair, the last thing I touch breaks. I broke the switch off trying to free it from the button. Ok, so we’re going to do a full switch replacement. No big deal, I just did it twice on the D5’s.
After buying the wrong size switches (of course), then finally getting the new switches soldered in, the buttons are all floppy, some just sinking into the frame when pushed. Jesus. Is this what the previous person was trying to fix with the cement and tape? Why did it happen in the first place?
Some of the buttons are completely mangled inside, they seem like they were burnt and melted with a soldering iron. So after scraping off any remnants of rubber cement I could find, I’m at the point of using superglue to raise the contact surface of some of the buttons so they have less gap with the switch. Some buttons are ok, some are not. It’s entirely baffling why it’s so inconsistent.
Fortunately, I haven’t broken anything further yet in this process. You can see if you look closely that the panel board is corroded badly at the top from whatever caused the rust on the top case. The ribbon cable is on its last legs and I’m trying to bend it as little as possible because it’s not going to hold out much longer. (Also, look very closely and see if you see the mistake the previous "tech" made. Answer at the end.)
Hopefully I can wrap this up tomorrow and move on to troubleshooting the K3M. Then hopefully the K5M firmware chip will come in and I can get some sounds loaded on it. Then what? Time to purge. I have an M-Audio Oxygen 25, two Roland D5’s and three Kawais: a K3M, a K1M and a K1R to part with. Answer: Look at the "No" button.